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TR: 17 Days in Austria

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Day 1: Friday, Jan. 11



Huge storm at night. Unable to sleep – nervous and excited. Up at 5.30. Already packed. To AVL at 8 am for 10 am flight to ATL. Excruciating 7 hour layover in Atlanta. Eat sandwiches the Porterette lovingly made this morning when I was too nervous to make them for myself. Flight to Munich leaves at 5. Sun sets over South Carolina.



Day 2: Saturday, Jan. 12



Can see lights twinkle along the coast of Ireland. Sky lightens over Normandy. Peaks of Alps stand like a front range in front of Munich. Touch down at 7 am. Munich airport is silent, modern and very clean. Collect bags and buy a German phrasebook. Buy a one way rail ticket to Bischofshofsen, Austria. A little snow in Munich, more as the train rises toward the Alps. Pass spa towns and wordlessly enter Austria. Train passes into the realm of the mountains through a deep chasm with a rushing river to the side. In Salzburg, where a castle stands on a hill and mountains rise vertically from the valley, change trains and as soon as sit down in the new train realize I’ve left my brand new phrase book on the old train! A $10 mistake. Short ride to Bischofshofsen, pass ski area at Eben. In Bish it’s windy and cool; wait 30 minutes for a bus to Radstadt, get let off and wait 30 more minutes for the bus to Flachau. Can see the ski resort from my bus stop. A few drops of rain. Pass the Atomic ski factory in Altenmarkt; looks like a huge modern dairy barn. Plenty of snow in Flachau; have no idea where to get off so get off at the first stop and start walking and asking directions. Woman in a ski shop points me to Haus Roswitha. Walk to the front door practicing my German and when I go in Roswitha looks up and smiles and says my name. I have a small single with a TV with 10 channels in German and a bathroom. Unpack and walk to the Spar for groceries. Eat sandwiches and watch German MTV and eat little sausages and drink Austrian red wine. Totally conked out at 6 pm after being awake for 27 straight hours.



Day 3: Sunday, Jan. 13



Up to snow – about 3 inches and still coming down. Have an ‘Austrian’ breakfast: muesli, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, little nuggets of something, raisins, prunes and yogurt. Separately; very plain. Mixed together, some wonderful flavor comes out of nowhere. Drink a pot of very strong coffee. And then the second course: rolls, pate, sliced “butter” cheese and thin sliced prosciutto and pepperoni. Twenty minute walk to the lifts. Show my voucher for a six-day Ski Amade pass. Here’s the deal: I’m staying at the base of Flachau, a resort about the size of Snowbird. It’s connected by lifts and a short bus ride to three other resorts. Within a short bus ride are a half dozen similarly sized ski areas and several smaller ones, and within a longer bus ride are a total of about 200 ski lifts making up the Amade region. So start at Flachau.







Ski into Wagrain and walk across town. Up Wagrain’s other side to a series of high bowls.







About 6 inches here. Skies breaking. Most of the lifts I take are six seaters; some are eight seaters. Most are detachable, but not super high speed. Many have bubbles, and some have leather heated seats. Ski 3300’ vertical down to Alpendorf. Rest for a minute then start back.







Make it back to the summit of Wagrain in the early afternoon. Stop for a beer.







As opposed to most American resorts, where there are a handful of mountain restaurants, almost every lift in Austria has a restaurant/bar somewhere along it, often more. Tables are spread around in the snow, or you can sit inside. Make a high traverse across the upper summit of Wagrain and lap powder runs off a double chair, then take a tram back to Wagrain summit and ski in early twilight down to Flachau.







Sandwiches, red wine, chips and chocolate for dinner.



Day 4: Monday, Jan. 14



Up to fog. Bus ride up the canyon to Flachauwinkl, a ski area with about 7 lifts and a 3000 foot vert, which sits in brilliant sunshine. Upper runs still have tons of powder off the trail. Most Austrians stick to the groomed areas, for some reason, and seem to like it the more hard packed it is. Lap the upper lifts before dropping down the long face to Kleinarl, another area.







Quiet here, and not much going on. Back to the summit and lap an upper t-bar before skiing back down to Flachauwinkl and taking a short bus ride to a base area on an opposing mountainside. Take an old gondola, then an old chair, and enter the Zauchensee ski area.







Zauchensee is a series of high open bowls served by a phalanx of lifts. From the summit hundreds of jagged fearsome peaks spread in every direction. Sumptuous view.







Find a beautiful t-bar on a backside and lap it repeatedly on the off trail runs. Nice powder. On fourth run make a turn and next thing I know everything is black and my legs are tingling. I must have hit a buried fence or a buried branch and gone face first into the snow. A ski edge hit my head and it’s bloody. Huge headache but feel OK. Most worried about the tingling in my legs; must have been from hitting my head. Recover, anyway, and ski into deep twilight. Drop back into Flachauwinkl and take bus to Flachau. Figs, chips, bread, prosciutto and cheese for dinner.





Day 5: Tuesday, Jan. 15



Up early. Bus to Radstadt, which doubles as a school bus; kids with XC skis and snowboards pile on – the Austrian equivalent of trumpets and tennis rackets, I guess. Change for a bus toward Schladming. Like almost all other busses in Austria, as long as I’ve got my skis with me and look like I’m going skiing, I ride for free. Schladming is actually a string of big areas. Get off the bus at Reiteralm at 8 am and they’re open. Ride a gondola and then a chair. Sun is just coming up; fog down low. Lap the summit then traverse down to Pichl. Not much snow here and the area, though big on vertical, is not very interesting. Ride successive chairs to the summit then traverse over to Rohrmoos. Lower lifts here are strung between barns and homes and apple trees.







In Rohrmoos a dozen hot air balloons are lifting into the blue sky.







The church steeples of Schladming, set against the rock walls of the Dachstein massif, frame the background.







All together it’s a captivating scene. Take this new gondola toward Schladming’s main mountain, Planai. Take a series of chairs and then t-bars above that to a series of high bowls.







Beautiful skiing and incredible views. Traverse over to another ski area, Hauser-Kaibling, where the snow is great and untracked from high traverses off the upper t-bars. Find I was totally unprepared for the beauty of this area. Ski lower on the mountain then a hard traverse back to Planai and lap the upper, then lower, lifts until closing.



(a conveyor loading system at Planai)









Walk through Schladming’s medieval core and catch a bus back to Flachau. More of the same for dinner, and walk the streets after and have a coffee in a small café.



Day 6: Wednesday Jan. 16



Storm is threatening.







Early bus to Radstadt, with the kids again, then to Schladming. Ski bus to Dachstein Gletscher. Road climbs to a plateau then Dachstein massif looms above.







Pass community ski lifts and a small area. Turn up toll road to Dachstein; windy, narrow and snowy but short. At Dachstein base pile into tram. Weather signs notes glacier has a 400 cm base and it’s –6C. Tram ride is straight up and about 5 minutes long. Final minute tram is face to face with sheer cliff. At tram summit, wind is blowing straight up the mountain. Hunker down and click in; the ski area here is actually pretty small. Two pomas and two t-bars at the top, and a double chair down below. Skiing is mellow but storm is starting to howl. As riding poma, notice a group of randonneers skinning above the poma, then take their skis off and start climbing a ladder. Then, they disappear. WTF? Climb up there and find two 16-foot aluminum ladders bolted to the sheer side of the mountain, and another 10-feet of metal rebar stuck into the rock.







Take my skis off and stand around for a few minutes seeing if anyone is going to tell me not to go up there. Climb the rebar and the ladders and find a tunnel. On other side, warning signs and snow shovels. The world drops away and across the valley is Schladming; a roped route traverses the mountain.







Follow it for a minute but I’m definitely out of my league here. Back through the tunnel and descend the ladder. It’s blowing so hard now it’s hard to even stay on the t-bar. Take the tram down







and at the base find that, around a corner and behind some trees, is a lodge and a t-bar.







Ski down and below it is another t-bar. Joy! Ski the t-bars for a few runs then have a beer.







Then see a sigh that says “skiweg an Ramsau.” I think that means ski trail to Ramsau. Look at my region map, which does indeed show a trail running from here toward Schladming. It’s a summer road actually full of walkers, snowshoers and sledders. Along the way are small hike-to inns where people are drinking beer and gluhwein. Pop out of the forest about 10 minutes later and there is another t-bar!







Ski it a few times and see across the street is a proper ski area. Ski over there and ride a quad, then a t-bar. Ride a rope tow back to the earlier t-bar and rejoin the skiweg. About 10 minutes later ski through a cluster of homes and farms and find I’m at yet another t-bar.







Ride it a few times and get back on the skiweg. Just a few minutes later I’m in Ramsau at another t-bar where the bottom station is next to the church.







Here the slopes are full of old people cross country skiing, people out walking on groomed walking trails and mothers pushing babies on wooden ski strollers – such things exist!







Ski til 3.30 and catch bus to Schladming, transfer to Radstadt, and get to Flachau as the sun is setting. Sandwiches, sausages, figs, chocolate and red wine for dinner.



Day 7: Thursday, Jan. 17



Up to snow.







Make laps on Flachau then down to the base to await the 10 am shuttle to Filzmoos, which is supposed to be a very beautiful area. But give up after 20 minutes and head back up Flachau and work over towards Alpendorf. Had hoped to make an 11 am bus to a large area up the canyon from Alpendorf called Grossarl, which is linked to an even larger area, Badgastein. But miss the 11 am bus and next one, at 1 pm, won’t give me time to ski the area and make it back to Alpendorf to make the long traverse back to Flachau. Instead take a bus to St. Johann, a four-lift area a few miles from Alpendorf. But get turned around in the fog and get off at the wrong side of town. It’s lower here and very wet – not rain, but almost. Walk 30 minutes to downtown, where the lifts are, and see a bus headed to Wagrain and decide that’s the best option. Head back to the Wagrain summit area and ski the new snow.



(heated high speed 8-seater with bubbles at Flachau)









Lifts close at 4 pm and instead of skiing down, stop and have a beer at an inn. Have a second, then ski down in the twilight. Same for dinner.





Day 8: Friday, Jan. 18



Take school bus to Altenmarkt, and connecting bus to Zauchensee, but get off at Altenmarkt ski area. It’s a three-lift area with about 2,400 vertical and nice wide open runs that dribble between pastures and farms toward the base. Up high there’s a few inches of new snow but it’s a warm day and storm clouds are swirling among the surrounding peaks. A few brief showers come through, one with a moment of drizzle, one with a few minutes of heavy snow, then it clears wonderfully. Ski over to a connected ski area, Radstadt, which has a long gondola and a quad and a t-bar. Ski summit to base a few times then walk into town and try to get ski bus to an area a few miles away called Fageralm. But run into a problem – the name of the bus stop I was given is actually used at three different stops, each about 50 meters apart, depending on the direction of the route. By the time I find the right one the bus has come and gone. The next one is in an hour and decide against. Walk back to Radstadt and lap the Altenmarkt side of the mountain. Stop for a beer then catch a bus up to Zauchensee, where I was earlier in the week. Beautiful conditions up here. Pause at the summit at 4 pm as the sun is setting across the Alps, spreading this incredible clear amber light. Back in Flachau, make arrangements to check out tomorrow, and try to figure out a tricky series of bus and train connections, all of which I hope to make so I can get to Kitzbuhel by 9 am.



Day 9: Saturday, Jan. 19



Up at 5 am and Roswitha has breakfast for me at 6. Catch 6.20 bus and make a series of short hops, paying this time since I’m traveling as opposed to going skiing, and make it for the 7.30 train at St. Johann.







For the past few days, whenever I told anyone I was headed to Kitzbuhel, all they talked about was the World Cup. I really had no idea what was going on. Each stop brought more and more rowdy ski fans, drinking beer, smoking, faces painted, wearing crazy hats. Get to Kitz at 9 am and the train unloads at the Hahnemkahm base to a throbbing crowd of flag waving, beer drinking singing ski fans. So this explains why I had such a hard time making a reservation! I had made reservations for nearby Kirchberg in November but realized the day before I was leaving I had made them for the wrong date! By that time it was impossible to rebook and I spent four hours online in a scramble for some area accommodation. All I found was single occupancy in a double room in Snow Bunnys, a hostel. It’s likely the world’s most expensive hostel room, but the location, right downtown, is unbeatable and I’ve got 60 channels of English satellite TV, a balcony, a kitchen, and a house full of drunk Brits. Drop my stuff and buy a two-day pass to Kitzbuhel. Ride the Hahnemkahm gondola to the summit and begin a huge traverse toward Pass Thurn, which involves traversing a series of high bowls and the new 3S gondola, a 30-seat gondola that traverses a deep, long valley with the use of a single tower and two glass-enclosed summit lodges. Turn around at 2 pm and start back toward Kitz, ending at the top and riding the gondola back down. Exhausted. Massive crowd gathering in the cobbled streets. Push through to the town’s two hilltop churches.







Bells ring simultaneously alpenglow lights the sky and full moon and patrons light candles at headstones surrounding the churches.











To the party and there’s bands, Djs, an awards ceremony, and huge screens showing ski videos. Drunken mayhem.







Good times.



Day 10: Sunday, June 20



Up early and catch first gondola up the Hahnemkahm. Intend today to ski the complete “Circus,” a round-Kitzbuhel circuit involving some 20 lifts and several villages.















Brochure said it could be completed in about 6 hours. I pushed hard for 8 hours with just a brief stop and still had to cut out one region. Brilliant beautiful day.



The 3S headed toward Kitz ...







Station on the Kitz side







Climbing out of Kirchberg







Afternoon descent to Kitz







Day 11: Monday, Jan. 21



Walk to the train station and catch early bus to Brixen. Brixen is the main base area for Ski Welt. Ski Welt has 90 lifts and is just a 20 minute bus ride from Kitz. Incredible. Ride from Brixen to the summit, work over to Hopfgarten, ride an ancient single chair, descent to Soll, work over to the sunny slopes of Scheffau, and down to Ellmau, where there is a funicular. Ride the funicular because it’s so fun.







Stop for a beer. Ski to Going, completing the majority of the circuit in one direction.



A double-quad







Tired. Sunny day, warm. Not a lot of snow here. Work back toward Brixen and discover on a lift ride my binding is coming loose. Ride gingerly and take the gondola back down at 3 pm. Back to Kitz. Out with the Brits at night. Drop my skis at a shop for an overnight tune; decide to go ahead and get the edges sharpened as well as glue in the binding.



Day 12: Tuesday, Jan. 22



Up to rain and 40. People are very freaked out about this. To train station and catch a bus to St. Johann. Had no real plan for the day. Raining at the base of St. Johann so get on the first bus I see, which is going to Fieberbrunn. Get there about 9 am, passing several community tows. Fieberbrunn four gondolas, four t-bars and 3 chairs. Two of the gondolas are pulse gondolas, which I can’t really figure out. It’s a series of gondolas that load together and travel together, rather than the normal scheme of being evenly spaced out and loading one at a time. Above midstation it’s snowing sideways and very dark. Skies part for a moment to reveal farmland and mountain peaks, then close in. Upper mountain, which is all open bowls, is closed off and even the middle mountain closes at times. Drenched. Ride all day in what becomes about 8 inches. Ride to the base plastered. Leave my skis to go to the bathroom and come out to a small crowd. Have only seen 3 telemarkers so far. People have heard of them but never really seen them, and people often ask me about the skis. I think in a land of downhill racers, people probably think skiing without having your heal attached to your ski is akin to riding in a wheelchair when you could walk. Snow down to the valley. Bus back to Kitz, where 5 pm traffic fills the streets. Hostel owner, who I felt like I was always in a pissing match with, throws an Austrian BBQ – 5 euro for thin sliced pork and rolls and all the gluhwein you could drink.







I haven’t really taken to gluhwein but do eat a lot of pork. Snows hard in Kitz. Beautiful.



Day 13: Wednesday, Jan. 23



Up to a cold morning and pink skies that turn blazing blue.







Pack and leave my bags in the hostel storage room. To the station and get a 45-minute ride straight to Waidring, passing St. Johann and several community tows along the way. In Waidring the ski area is Steinplatte. Take the gondola to the summit.







The skiing here is on 10 lifts and mostly mellow. There’s a foot new at the gondola station but only one lift is open when I arrive: an 8-seater. Ride it a half dozen times; like before, Austrians seem to stick to the groomers so I’ve got run after run to myself in the powder.







More chairs open and take two to the summit. A foot and a half here, and it’s gorgeous and light. Work the mountain down to the base then ski down a wooded trail and come out at a different ski area. Taken by surprise with this. Ski to the base and look for a trail map but there is no base, no base lodge, only a bus turn around, but the busses are a different color and so are the phones, and I ask around and learn I’ve skied into Germany!







This area is called Winklmoosalm, and has got a long, flat quad, three t-bars and a rope and a troop of German soldiers learning to ski. Find a restaurant and enjoy a German beer. Ride the quad and the steeper t-bar and pass a sign which says entering Austria. Ski to the backside of the area and find steep untracked runs. Ski the steepest run, one right under the lift, and make two jump turns in the powder and feel my boot release from my binding. That should not have happened. Look down and find my left cable binding has totally broken – the cable insert to the spring housing has been severed. Limp off the slope but find I can still ski the groomers if I parallel (if you call that skiing). Knock off at 3.30 and bus back to Kitzbuhel. Mad scramble to make 5 pm train to Innsbruck; stop along the way to Google search. Had heard there was one telemark shop in the whole of Austria, and that it’s near St. Anton, which I guess now is in my travel plans for the morning. Miss train and spend an hour shivering on the platform. Change in Worgl and arrive in Innsbruck at 8 pm. Drunks outside the station. Walk to Matha Wilhelm’s bed and breakfast, which is in an apartment she has near an annex of the university downtown. Unpack and eat a large very thin cheese pizza at Dottore’s.



Day 14: Thursday, Jan. 24



Take an 8 am train to St. Anton. Share cabin with a nice successful young German. Gradually snowier valleys, and taller and more imposing peaks, before a series of tunnels leads us to St. Anton. Walk into town and find Pete’s, Austria’s only telemark shop. Earlier, I had thought the best-case scenario would be I have to buy a very expensive pair of bindings no better than what I had. Wrong – they actually had replacement cables, and I got a pair for 69 euro.







Buy a day pass and take the new gondola/tram – a 20-person cabin which loads backwards then is hoisted on to the cable buy a massive uplifting gear. As gondola soars toward a mid station the jagged snowy peaks of St. Anton spread out in every direction.







This area is way too large for a day trip. Exit gondola and ride an old triple to the summit proper, and the world falls away in rock lined chutes and massive open bowls.







St. Anton is the first place I felt like I needed to be careful – lots of intimidating terrain.







Also, a lot of jostling in the lift lines. Never ending amazement and people who will step across your skis to cut in front of you in the sometimes chaotic lift line. Work the front of the mountain the move over to St. Christof and then cross the highway to Stuben. Chair after chair lead to a summit surrounded by jagged peaks and sweeping bowls. Can see the road leading to Zurs and decide to head there.







Cramped bus ride through a series of snow tunnels. Ski both sides of Zurs and cut up the still-good snow.











An awesome day, totally clear. I knew my old cables had a limited lifespan, and I had been skiing with them loose, so with the new cables I was able to tighten up and had much snappier turns. In IBK, back to Dottores, then wander the cobbled streets of the old town and peer into beautiful modern bars and restaurants fit into the centuries-old buildings which I’m too intimidated to go into.



Day 15: Friday, Jan. 25



Innsbruck ski bus is less than 100m from Matha’s. Learn from Matha the busses leave to each area at 9 am. I was like, what kind of wimp goes skiing at 9 am? Nevertheless, little choice. Waiting for the busses to arrive, a group of skiers walks up – a ski club from New Jersey! The first Americans I’ve really encountered on the trip, and the spell is broken. Suddenly realize that in 48 hours this all will be over, and thoughts of work, car, house et al come flooding back. It’s 40 and raining lightly. There is almost no snow in the Innsbruck valley, and the locals I talk to are pretty freaked out about this. Take ski bus to Axamer. Axamer has the feel of a slightly abused, slightly underappreciated locals area – maybe like Mt. Spokane or Snoqualmie. It’s 10 lifts, including a funicular, in a big bowl, mostly open and treeless.







Ski in new snow and as skies part find the area is surrounded by soaring cliffs and views toward IBK.







Beer for lunch and take the double towards Muttereralm, a connected ski area. Easy traverse and come across a long gondola. Wild sweeping run down to the base, but learn the gondola is closing at 2 due to technical work. Take a bus to Muttereralm’s main base, where there is a gondola, a rope, a quad and a t-bar and 3,100 feet of vertical. A kids ski team is practicing on the main slope, and watch them for a while. Take final run all the way to the base and make it to Matha’s by 5. Back to the old town and do some gift shopping – Austrian wine, Austrian chocolate and Austrian sausages.







Back for another pizza.



Day 16: Saturday, Jan. 26



Last day to ski! Not by any measure ready to go home. Take ski bus to Stubai Gletscher, passing Rangger Kopel along the way and several small areas in the Neustift valley as well as Schlick. Don’t make it to Stubai until almost 11. Snowy here, but not as snowy as you’d think for the base of a glacier. Double gondolas to a mid station split in opposite directions and lead to two summits. Quads and six seaters lead to more. T-bars and chairs serve the back. Stubai is long mellow runs and bowls, totally open, very relaxed and great for cruising.







The glacier, however, has receded alarming … it appears to be retreated into a few pockets right against the cliffs, not the entire valley that it used to cover just a few years ago.











Start to worry about the time the bus will get back and a tight connection I’ve got to make a 6.45 train to Munich. Head down early, taking a 10K trail, and find the earlier busses to IBK are not free – in fact they’re 13 euro each. Wait for the free 4.30 bus, having a few beers to pass the time. Outstanding sunset over IBK valley. Watch seconds tick by. Dropped off near B and B at 6 pm. Matha is there, just about to take Sammy, the dog, for a walk. Say goodbye to her and change clothes in a mad rush in a hall closet. Scamper like a sherpa through the streets of IBK. The Turks who run Dottores are outside smoking, and bid them goodbye. Then the bus driver from Stubai is waiting for a new run, and say bye to him, too. Make it to the train station and get a ticket with 8 minutes to spare. Ride snowy rails to Worgl, then darkness to Munich, arriving at 8.30. Finding the hostel turns out to be very easy. It’s a 44 euro single and likely the world’s smallest hotel room … I can’t turn around in it while wearing my backpack. Central, though, and that’s key when you’re on foot. Pizza and beer for dinner. The streets are quiet. Walk to the train station and try to figure out the S-bahn to the airport in the morning. Have a beer at a stylish station bar, then walk the platforms and contemplate the trains leaving for Frankfurt, Dusseldorf, Italy, and Geneva. To bed late.



Day 17: Sunday, Jan. 27



Can’t sleep. Up at 5.30. Pack my stinking clothes and stinking boots. Wear my least-smelly outfit. No breakfast. To station and find Lufthansa bus headed to the airport – take it instead of the S-bahn.







Excruciating check in at Delta counter. 90 minute wait in clean, quiet airport with flights headed for most corners of the globe. Leave at 10 for 10 hour flight to ATL. Clouds part briefly over France and Ireland then not until New Brunswick and Pennsylvania. Land in ATL at 4 local time. Call the Porterette. Have fried chicken. Walk the T and E terminals, where planes are leading to Lagos and Buenos Aires and Paris and Brussels, and watch the departures board, something I’m endlessly fascinated with, for planes going to cities I know, and cities I want to go to. The 10 pm flight to AVL is 5 minutes late. Finally sleep from exhaustion. Arrive in AVL at 11, Some snow on the ground. Porterette there. Joyous reunion. In bed by 1.
n_alabamaskier
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you offically suck



awesome trip. I have always wanted to ski St Aton (Lech & Zurs) and maybe Kitz. Also Wengen there at INK, just wondering why you skipped it?



TR of the year right there
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dreamnofpow
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NICE you weren't kidding about your TR. I'm sure you were happy with all the T-bars and Pomas.
EastCoaster
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Dood.



I love seeing one of your TR threads come up, because I know its time to sit back, relax with a cold one, and prepare to spend 20 minutes reading and czeching the sweet pics.



Looks like an awesome trip; is this the first time youve been to Austria/Euroland?
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Zeus
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Wow. Just wow.



Porter does it again!
Josh
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EPIC
StealthBoarder
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I'm speechless...
SKISC
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Great TR. However I do miss the car camping part.
PowderMob
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Sweet Mother. That was Awesome Porter.
TheGnar
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That was by far the best TR that i've seen since i've joined. Killer pics. Glad you had an epic time over there.
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